History
In a world where Rolex is considered a young company, and the patricians of the watch world exceed 200 years old, it’s difficult to believe that Hublot has achieved the same level of recognition in just 40 years.
Hublot came onto the scene as a disruptor – just 8 years after established luxury brand Audemars Piguet convinced the world that steel could be luxurious, Carlo Crocco’s MDM Geneve convinced us that rubber could be luxurious by pairing it with his gold Hublot. The bezel bolts may have borrowed from the royal oak, but the concept of a luxury watch combining multiple materials on a rubber strap was all Hublot.
25 years later Hublot shocked the watch world again with the Big Bang. Unashamedly taking inspiration from the royal oak offshore, but with Hublot and Jean Claude Biver’s flare for the dramatic.
Measuring 44mm, with a titanium core, steel outer case, ceramic bezel, carbon fiber dial and a tire tread patterned rubber strap, the Big Bang was a mission statement that Hublot world was here to stay.
This was at a time where Ricard Milles formula 1 cars for the wrist matched the number of F1 cars on the grid, but Hublot had given the world a Ferrari for the wrist long before their eventual tie up with the prancing horse.
Much like Rolex and Omega, Hublot had made chronographs before the Big Bang, but this was its 57 Speedmaster, it’s 62 Daytona – a racing inspired chronograph that would define the brand that made it for years to come.
On the wrist
Hublot is often discussed only for its designs and innovative use of materials, but one of its hidden strengths of the Big Bang is its size defying ergonomics.
At first glance you’d imagine this 44m diameter, 14.5mm tall watch would feel like a lead weight on the wrist, but the lightweight rubber strap, titanium inner case and ceramic bezel all contribute to a weight reduction that defies the size of the Big Bang.
The titanium clasp with the Hublot H logo shaping the swing arms also serves to tuck excess strap on the inside of the strap when on the wrist – providing some cushioning where normal deployant clasps would dig into the wrist.
And the screwed in rubber strap articulates right down, countering the flare of the case, allowing the Big Bang to fit comfortably on wrists that have no business wearing such a large watch.
The on the wrist experience defies expectations and is key to the appeal of the Big Bang, the design is that of a dream watch – much like a Ferrari is a dream car, but it’s weara
Movement
Housed within the 100M water resistant case, beats a Sellita SW510 chronograph calibre based on the famed valjoux 7750 movement with 42 hours of power reserve and a 28,800 beat rate.
This lateral clutch, column wheel chronograph features registers in a 3-6-9 layout with a quickset date at 4:30. The chronograph action is crisp on engagement and reset.
While still a customer calibre, Hublot still added a, skeletonkzed rotor for greater visibility on what they call the HUB4100, choice of the SW510 may mean less prestige but it also greatly reduces long term servicing costs compared to if it had an in house movement.
Details
Whatever the Big Bang loses in movement prestige it hits back with details and finish.
The mostly satin finished case has strong character lines in high polish along the flanks, contrasting the matte black exposed resin giving it semi skeletonized look on the outside.
The ceramic bezel has a knurled, hobnail pattern all around its edge while its face is flawlessly polished – catching light as it moves.
Hublot’s signature H screws are high polish and made of titanium, yet another weight saving measure as they secure the strap,bezel, and clasp.
And on the dial side the fusion of textures and materials continues – the bright red chronograph hands are a high contrast to the black and gray carbon fiber pattern of the dial, while rhodium plated, faceted indicies alternate with chunky Arabic numerals.
Even the strap features a tire tread pattern, leaving no doubt in the mind that this in its day was meant to match a Ferari Enzo for presence as well as its fusion of exotic materials, and much like the DNA of the Enzo can still be seen in 2020, the Big Bang has defined 21st century Hublot.
